Barcelona is defined by the Eixample, the grid laid out by Ildefons Cerda in the 1860s with its distinctive chamfered corners. Once you understand the grid, the city becomes very easy to navigate, and the chamfers themselves were a deliberate design decision to let trams turn and light reach street level. Gaudi's work is the obvious draw and the Sagrada Familia is worth the ticket, though the Casa Batllo and Park Guell reward a visit just as much with a fraction of the crowd. The Gothic Quarter immediately south is older, denser and easy to get lost in, which is the correct way to experience it. Barcelona is also a beach city, which surprises first-time visitors: Barceloneta is a twenty-minute walk from the old town. Catalan is the region's own language and appears first on most signage; Spanish is universally understood, and a word of Catalan is noticed and appreciated.
When to visit
May, June and September. July and August bring both heat and the heaviest crowds.